Virginia African American food roots run deep through the legacy of two enslaved chefs who changed American cuisine.
🌍 Where the Story Begins
African Americans shaped American fine dining not in the spotlight, but from the shadows of plantation kitchens and presidential households — a legacy born in Virginia.
Episode 3 highlights Virginia as the birthplace of American fine dining, shaped by two enslaved chefs: James Hemings and Hercules. Hemings trained in France and returned to Monticello to cook for Thomas Jefferson, introducing French techniques like sautéing and sauce-making. Hercules cooked multi-course meals for George Washington’s household.
Their contributions included:
- Macaroni and Cheese
- French-style whipped cream desserts
- Crème sauces and custards
- Meringues and snow eggs
Today, chefs and historians are reclaiming their legacy and recognizing them as foundational figures in American cuisine.
🔁 Why Virginia Still Matters
Virginia’s food story begins with slavery, but it extends far beyond it. As Dr. Leni Sorensen says:
“You can’t talk about American food without talking about African Americans.”
From plantation kitchens to urban restaurants, Black chefs shaped the American table. James Hemings and Hercules Posey laid the foundation of fine dining through their work in the kitchens of Jefferson and Washington. Their legacy traveled north — influencing chefs like Thomas Downing, a free Black man in New York known as the “Oyster King of the City.” His oyster cellar became a fine-dining destination in the 1800s, continuing the story of Black culinary excellence that began in Virginia.
Virginia matters because it launched a story that still shapes American food today.
✈️ Culinary Spots & Cultural Sites in Virginia
- Hatchet Hall(Culver City, CA)
While located in Los Angeles, this restaurant honors the culinary legacy of early African American chefs. Known for its “Hemings & Hercules” dinner series, it revives recipes such as:- Veal olive — inspired by Hercules
- Braised rabbit — based on James Hemings’ recipes
- Cool custard poached egg — attributed to Hemings’ French-influenced techniques
- Monticello (Charlottesville, VA)
Home of James Hemings’ kitchen and legacy. Visitors today can taste reinterpretations of his 200-year-old recipes, including a rich macaroni pie, the early form of modern mac and cheese.
“To know that I’m a descendant of James Hemings, and that he did all of this — it makes me proud.”
— Descendant of James Hemings, in High on the Hog
- Sandy Ground (Staten Island, NY)
A historic free Black community once home to oystermen and farmers. Sandy Ground reflects Black resilience and connects Southern foodways to Northern cities. - Eugene & Co (Brooklyn, NY)
Chef known as “The Real Mothashucker” uses oysters to reconnect Brooklyn’s Black community with their culinary roots.
🍽️ Explore All of the Culinary History in High on the Hog – Season 1
📍 Episode 1 – Benin: Where the Story of African American Cuisine Begins
📍 Episode 2 – South Carolina: The Rice Kingdom
📍 Episode 3 – Virginia: African American Chefs and the Birth of Fine Dining (You’re reading it)
📍 Episode 4 – Texas: Juneteenth and African American Barbecue Traditions