In Puglia, Stanley Tucci explores the heart of cucina povera (“cooking of the poor”), where burnt grain and bold flavors tell stories of survival and pride. From fiery spaghetti in Bari to raw squid at the city’s harbor, this episode is a celebration of simplicity elevated to artistry.
A Land of Scarcity and Strength
Puglia, the southeastern region forming the “heel” of Italy’s boot, is one of the country’s poorest areas—once nicknamed “the shame of Italy.” Yet it’s precisely this hardship that has shaped its proud, agrarian identity. With more olive trees than people and golden fields of durum wheat stretching to the horizon, Puglia produces world-renowned olive oil, vibrant vegetables, and exceptional cheeses. Here, food traditions are deeply rooted in the soil—and in struggle.
Bites of Puglia: What Tucci Eats
Rebel City
Bari is a coastal city and historic trading hub shaped by resilience. Despite being one of Italy’s poorest areas, its people have endured with strength. Tucci meets semi-illegal fishmongers, women making handmade orecchiette in alleyways, and a chef who serves a rule-breaking pasta. In Bari, defiance is a way of life.
Places & Dishes:
- Bari’s Port – Semi-illegal seafood sellers; Tucci tries raw squid for the first time
- Bari Vecchia (Old Town) – At Arco Basso, women make and sell orecchiette by hand
- Urban l’ assassineria urbana – Chef Celso Laforgia’s Spaghetti all’Assassina: spicy, seared, and bold
From the Ashes
Foggia, also known as the breadbasket of Italy, produces more durum wheat than anywhere else in the country. But not everyone could afford the good flour. After harvest, poor families would gather burnt grains left from scorched fields and grind them into a smoky, dark flour—once a necessity, now a signature of pride. This grano arso tradition lives on in dishes that celebrate both survival and identity.
Places & Dishes:
- Molino Daddario Antonia – A local mill that toasts grain to make roasted flour for taralli, a beloved Puglian snack
- Antichi Sapori (Montegrosso) – Chef Pietro Zito’s restaurant, meaning Ancient Flavors. Tucci tastes his signature burnt grain orecchiette with fava beans, burrata, and charred black olives—a world-class dish that captures the soul of Puglia through history and humble ingredients
Into the Fire
In the Valle dei Trulli, near the town of Cisternino, Tucci discovers a landscape dotted with unique cone-shaped stone houses. Local builders designed the trulli with removable roofs. When tax collectors came, residents took off the tops and claimed the homes weren’t permanent, avoiding property taxes. What began as a strategy for survival became one of Puglia’s most iconic architectural symbols.
Places & Dishes:
- Trattoria Bere Vecchie – A historic fornello, or butcher shop that grills meat. Tucci tastes bombette, made with capocollo rolled with cheese and herbs, grilled over open flame.
Lifeblood
In the Andria area of northern Puglia, Tucci visits a region responsible for producing nearly 50% of Italy’s olive oil. The combination of terrain, sun-drenched climate, and mineral-rich soil creates olives with a distinctively peppery, complex flavor. Here, olive oil isn’t just an ingredient—it’s a way of life.
Places & Dishes:
- Petroni Olive Farm – A multi-generational olive farm where Tucci learns how to properly taste olive oil: warm the glass with your hand, inhale deeply, then sip and aerate. This rich oil elevates even a piece of dry bread.
Breaking the Mold
In the city of Altamura, Tucci visits Caseificio Dicecca, a cheese shop and factory run by a fifth-generation family operated today by five siblings. Here he meets the casari (cheesemakers) who are innovating while honoring tradition.
Places & Dishes:
- Caseificio Dicecca – A historic, multi-generational cheese factory creating a new Puglian blue cheese, blending Burrata cream with goat-milk blue cheese
- Baby Dicecca – An outdoor tasting bar in the Mercadante Forest, where Tucci enjoys focaccia barese topped with Burrata
Rags to Riches
Tucci ends his journey in Matera, a hauntingly beautiful city once part of Puglia, now within Basilicata. Known for its cave dwellings carved into mountainside rock, Matera once faced such deep poverty that many abandoned it, and the nation labeled it a shame. Today, it stands as a symbol of rebirth—its ancient stones now house artists, chefs, and luxury travelers.
Places & Dishes:
- Caffè Schiuma – Famous for Tette delle Monache (“nuns’ breasts”), a dome-shaped pastry with sweet cream
- Vitantonio Lombardo Ristorante – A Michelin-starred spot where Tucci tries Poverty and Nobility, a dish of charred bread, mashed potatoes, and veal that captures Matera’s transformation from survival to sophistication
🏠 Bring the Puglia Flavor Home
Experience the flavors of Puglia in your own kitchen with these authentic ingredients featured in Stanley Tucci’s journey.
🫒 Coratina Robust Extra Virgin Olive Oil (Puglia)
Cold-pressed from Coratina olives in Puglia, this peppery EVOO captures the bold character of the region’s sun-drenched groves. ⭐ 4.4/5 stars | 360+ reviews
“Rich, spicy, and unforgettable — just like southern Italy.”
🍝 Alma Gourmet AGRIGIO Burnt Wheat Orecchiette (Grano Arso)
Made from roasted wheat flour, this traditional pasta offers smoky depth and rustic charm. A taste of cucina povera, elevated.
“Perfect with fava beans, burrata, or just a drizzle of olive oil.”
Crunchy, savory, and baked in the heart of Puglia—this traditional snack. ⭐ 4.3/5 stars | 550+ reviews
“Simple, addictive, and unmistakably Puglian.”
Beyond the Plate: Reflections on Puglia
Puglia’s story is one of survival turned into beauty. Once dismissed as a poor and forgotten region, it has risen through the strength of its people and the richness of its land. From alleyway pasta makers to world-class chefs, tradition isn’t just preserved here—it’s reimagined.
The region’s olive oil says it all. Grown in ancient groves and shaped by sun, soil, and stone, its bold, peppery flavor reflects generations of resilience. It’s not just something to taste—it’s something to feel.
I don’t just want to visit—I want to taste that olive oil myself.
Next Episode Tease
Next up: Tucci sails to Sardinia, the rugged island where ancient traditions, pecorino cheese, and mysterious pastas reveal a culture shaped by isolation, resilience, and deep-rooted pride.
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